i think this is hillariously funny AND brilliant...
an alternative way to learn about...
earth worms:
bees:
or go look for the other insects she's masquerading as...
how to loose courage
it has been a long time since i posted anything here, i guess i lost my courage when all my pellies got a disease. i'll explain all about it but i have a problem... i'm not sure what it's called in english! it looks like an aphid (only it's smaller and white), the swedish term is "rotlöss" (root's lice) and i haven't found the right translation.
ok, here's what evil looks like, remember you can click on any image that you want enlarged:
you'll probably notice that some of the roots are covered in a white, fuzzy substance that looks a little like mold. this is the first sign of these bugs, you'll see it on the roots and on the inside of the pot. it's so white that it can have a slight bluish tinge in hard light. because you'll only see it when looking inside the pot, it might take you a while to spot it, which is the (even more) annoying part as this disease spreads easily. i didn't realise what was happening before it was way, way too late and lost half my plants.
once these buggers really get going, you'll be able to see them. i took some pix but it's hard to see them (especially since i use so much sand in my potting dirt), so i made a note on the photo:
disgusting and depressing, i know! i also realise that weird insects and roots revealing that i should have repotted this particular plant sooner is not what anybody wants to read about... i'm just hoping that a) someone will tell me what this is called in english and b) i can enlighten someone so not everyone has to run around in a panicked frenzy like i did.
perhaps you'd like to know how to deal with it by now?
CHECK the earth on every plant before you buy it or, if you have it already and find the bug; send it back immediately.
DO NOT put more than one pelargonium in each container, since it spreads via the water. and if you can't resist, at least don't put your favourite ones in there.
FORGET about saving the plant if it's contaminated. take a cutting or two and throw the rest out.
WASH all pots with hot water and soap before reusing them. or use your oven.
ok, i got that rant out. i hope that the bugs are out too, i'll find out next weekend as i'm repotting for spring. and then i hope i'll find my courage and pellie love again!
in the meantime, let's look at something much prettier:
update: more info and pix here (in Swedish) at the very helpful site Gröna Sidorna.
ok, here's what evil looks like, remember you can click on any image that you want enlarged:
you'll probably notice that some of the roots are covered in a white, fuzzy substance that looks a little like mold. this is the first sign of these bugs, you'll see it on the roots and on the inside of the pot. it's so white that it can have a slight bluish tinge in hard light. because you'll only see it when looking inside the pot, it might take you a while to spot it, which is the (even more) annoying part as this disease spreads easily. i didn't realise what was happening before it was way, way too late and lost half my plants.once these buggers really get going, you'll be able to see them. i took some pix but it's hard to see them (especially since i use so much sand in my potting dirt), so i made a note on the photo:
disgusting and depressing, i know! i also realise that weird insects and roots revealing that i should have repotted this particular plant sooner is not what anybody wants to read about... i'm just hoping that a) someone will tell me what this is called in english and b) i can enlighten someone so not everyone has to run around in a panicked frenzy like i did.perhaps you'd like to know how to deal with it by now?
CHECK the earth on every plant before you buy it or, if you have it already and find the bug; send it back immediately.
DO NOT put more than one pelargonium in each container, since it spreads via the water. and if you can't resist, at least don't put your favourite ones in there.
FORGET about saving the plant if it's contaminated. take a cutting or two and throw the rest out.
WASH all pots with hot water and soap before reusing them. or use your oven.
ok, i got that rant out. i hope that the bugs are out too, i'll find out next weekend as i'm repotting for spring. and then i hope i'll find my courage and pellie love again!
in the meantime, let's look at something much prettier:
update: more info and pix here (in Swedish) at the very helpful site Gröna Sidorna.
garden festival I
at every corner i turned i saw adorable flower decorations - i especially liked the huge, hanging flower ball in the top right corner.
but there was also a plethora of garden paraphernalia... think vintage, handmade, picnic, garden party... anything romantic, really.
i liked the seemingly random placing of some of the decorations:
most of these pictures are taken early in the morning, before the crowd flooded the place...
but when they did arrive, everyone was immensely cheerful...
in my mind all this happiness came from the scent of the pelargoniums that could be seen at almost every stall. to my heart's delight :-) just look at these, rather special, beauties here:
Dresden White
this is a favourite of mine. i cannot seem to get enough of the simple, white, single flowering pelargoniums.
P. odoratissimum
section cortusina.
this species is popular for its scent which is clean, apple like and quite strong, it reminds me of a fancy french soap.
strange layout
i have no idea what is happening to my template but the layout sure looks strange this morning... ??? i'll close my eyes and hope it goes away for now... i really don't want to change anything.
and then i'll go look at the pelargoniums that have started to bloom -
the next morning: aha! sometimes closing your eyes and pretending not to see the problem actually works! nothing is wrong now...pheew... not sure this was such a good thing for me to learn, though ;-)
and then i'll go look at the pelargoniums that have started to bloom -
the next morning: aha! sometimes closing your eyes and pretending not to see the problem actually works! nothing is wrong now...pheew... not sure this was such a good thing for me to learn, though ;-)
plants all over and not a flower in sight
so we'll have to make do with this painting while we wait for the buds to arrive. at least it's got a pelargonium in it ;-)while i've been waiting away, this blog has turned a magic corner; the number 1000. more than one thousand visits from all over the world! i mostly blog for my own sake and yet i think it's great that you all stop by - thanks. especially on this blog, where i am trying to compile helpful tips and information. sitemeter shows me what people came looking for and i get really excited when people come here looking for some info that is actually here. and i have a long list now of information that is not, for future posts of pelargonia madness :-D
visitor # 1000 came here via google looking for info on "pelargonium soft cuttings" - i think this person would have had any questions on that subject answered by previous posts but still; if any of you have any questions, fire away and i'll do my best to answer them.
i'll be back soon - hopefully with pictures of blooming pellies.
a new beginning
as we wave goodbye to winter, spring has already moved into my pots. all the pelargoniums have new soil, some of them new pots and most of them are already putting on new, green finery. the new leaves are the most clear and soft green and i love to watch as they slowly unfold.
some of the plants had stretched so far for the light over the winter that they needed a good trim and i took some snap shots in order to write a little "how to" on growing cuttings.
now it's all about enjoying the light, soak it all in and get ready. for in no time, we will be back to this:
some of the plants had stretched so far for the light over the winter that they needed a good trim and i took some snap shots in order to write a little "how to" on growing cuttings.
now it's all about enjoying the light, soak it all in and get ready. for in no time, we will be back to this:
how to propagate pelargoniums from cuttings
one of the wonderful things about pelargoniums is that they are so easy to propagate. it can be done by seeds if you're looking at growing species or F1 cultivars but the easiest way - and the only way for most cultivars - is by taking cuttings. here's how to do it:
:: THE POTS ::
i prefer terracotta. i think they're prettier and better for the environment but most importantly, they drain faster and pelargoniums don't like to get their feet wet. you'll need to soak the pots before use. put them in a bucket of water for at least a couple of hours. if you're reusing old pots, it's real smart to make sure you don't transfer any bacteria or virus to your new plants so put some disinfectant in the water. i use chlorine.
use the smallest possible pot. for cuttings, i use the ones that are 6 cm in diameter at the top. they're tiny, i know, and you'll need to re-pot most plants fairly soon. it is easier, however, to give good care with these small pots. you can water them without risking water log as they are small enough to drain quickly. and you'll see more quickly when the plant is strong enough to receive fertilizer by the size of the roots.
:: THE SOIL ::
for cuttings you'll need to use a neutral soil - same as you'd use for seeds or any other cutting. some people prefer to use only this in the beginning and then mix it later but i use mixed soil from the beginning to make sure there will be drainage right the core of the root system.
i mix one half growing soil with another half of leca and coarse sand. the leca needs to be the smallest size, 2-4 mm, and if you can't get your hands on that then stick with sand. i buy the sand in a pet shop, the kind used for birds is sterilized and therefore perfect. otherwise you can use a mix of beach sand and gravel and then sterilize it by baking it in the oven!
:: THE CUTTING ::
take a look at the old plant, it will probably have some new shoots. it might seems brutal to cut it but remember that the more branches your plant has, the more flowers you'll see. after a long winter, most cultivars are happy to get a good trim and you can also shape your old plant in this way.
remember that it is not necessary to cut your plants! a lot of books & sites write about trimming as if it's something you have to do but it's not. it's about propagation, aesthetics and perhaps giving cuttings to someone else. quite a few of the pelargonium freaks i've met or heard of keep a small version of every plant they have in their collection in order to be on the safe side if something should happen to the mother plant :-) i trim my plants if they look like they are struggling too much or if they've grown completely out of shape. some people do it to save room over the winter. and then, off course, the cuttings are excellent to swop if you are after new kinds of pelargoniums.
new plants grow best from a fresh shoot, so find one of those soft green ones that looks really succulent and eager. you don't want one where the leaves are really far apart as will happen if the plant is reaching too far for light. the strongest part of the stem is close to the tip, so short cuttings will be the healthiest.
when you've found a good place to cut, do it just above a node. a node is where leaves, branches or stipuli grows or has grown. if nothing is there, it'll look like an eye on the stem.
:: PREPARATION OF THE CUTTING ::
cut of the bottom part of the stem, just below a node. the nodes is where growth appears and in this case it'll be new roots. uh, by the way, if you don't already know it, you can click on each picture to get a bigger version to see better what the ... i'm talking about :-)
remove all leaves from the bottom up, so that there's only two left - if the leaves are really new or small, you can leave three. do this to make sure there not too big areas of dehydration and to make sure the new plant will use it's energy on building strong new roots. if there are any flower buds, it is crucial that you remove them too, for the same reason.
you will also need to remove the stipuli; the tiny green "leaves" that sits in most nodes, see the picture if you're in doubt.
finally, i use a solution of vitamin C to give the plants a good head start. i use the tablets that can be dissolved but i know vitamin C is available in powder and will do just as well. you need to stir it with something that is not metal in a small glass or vase and then leave the cutting in it for a while.
:: PLANTING ::
cover the drainage hole with bigger leca or a small piece of a broken pot to keep the bottom of the pot clean and ensure good drainage.
fill up the wet pot with the soil mix and make a hole in it, for example with a pencil. stick the cutting in and make sure that at least three nodes are covered.
place the pot in water so that it's emerged at least half way. very quickly the soil will become moist and you should remove the pot from the water before the soil is completely soaked.
afterwards, simply place your new friend in your lightest space and make sure that it is warm. i stick them in my window sill and crank the radiator beneath as i refuse to invest in a propagator. this way they have lots of light and get warmth from below and i just have to make sure that they are continuously moist.
do not cover them, as is suggested with some plants! pelargonium cuttings need to have moist soil but dry leaves as they are very prone to rotting.
oh, and, if you know the name of the mother plant, it's smart to stick a plant label in the pot ;-)
:: CARE ::
in a few weeks, the cutting will have new roots and your friend is well on it's way. when you see the roots - either because they stick out through the drainage hole or because you gently look down the sides inside of the pot you should start following their growth. this will depend on the type/size of the mother plant, but when the roots shoot through most of the small pot, it is time to either start fertilizing or transplant it too a bigger pot with normal soil. this will, for most normal types of cultivars be after 4-6 weeks. in these weeks it the most important to make sure the soil is constantly moist.
GOOD LUCK!
:: THE POTS ::
i prefer terracotta. i think they're prettier and better for the environment but most importantly, they drain faster and pelargoniums don't like to get their feet wet. you'll need to soak the pots before use. put them in a bucket of water for at least a couple of hours. if you're reusing old pots, it's real smart to make sure you don't transfer any bacteria or virus to your new plants so put some disinfectant in the water. i use chlorine. use the smallest possible pot. for cuttings, i use the ones that are 6 cm in diameter at the top. they're tiny, i know, and you'll need to re-pot most plants fairly soon. it is easier, however, to give good care with these small pots. you can water them without risking water log as they are small enough to drain quickly. and you'll see more quickly when the plant is strong enough to receive fertilizer by the size of the roots.
:: THE SOIL ::
for cuttings you'll need to use a neutral soil - same as you'd use for seeds or any other cutting. some people prefer to use only this in the beginning and then mix it later but i use mixed soil from the beginning to make sure there will be drainage right the core of the root system. i mix one half growing soil with another half of leca and coarse sand. the leca needs to be the smallest size, 2-4 mm, and if you can't get your hands on that then stick with sand. i buy the sand in a pet shop, the kind used for birds is sterilized and therefore perfect. otherwise you can use a mix of beach sand and gravel and then sterilize it by baking it in the oven!
:: THE CUTTING ::
take a look at the old plant, it will probably have some new shoots. it might seems brutal to cut it but remember that the more branches your plant has, the more flowers you'll see. after a long winter, most cultivars are happy to get a good trim and you can also shape your old plant in this way. remember that it is not necessary to cut your plants! a lot of books & sites write about trimming as if it's something you have to do but it's not. it's about propagation, aesthetics and perhaps giving cuttings to someone else. quite a few of the pelargonium freaks i've met or heard of keep a small version of every plant they have in their collection in order to be on the safe side if something should happen to the mother plant :-) i trim my plants if they look like they are struggling too much or if they've grown completely out of shape. some people do it to save room over the winter. and then, off course, the cuttings are excellent to swop if you are after new kinds of pelargoniums.
new plants grow best from a fresh shoot, so find one of those soft green ones that looks really succulent and eager. you don't want one where the leaves are really far apart as will happen if the plant is reaching too far for light. the strongest part of the stem is close to the tip, so short cuttings will be the healthiest.when you've found a good place to cut, do it just above a node. a node is where leaves, branches or stipuli grows or has grown. if nothing is there, it'll look like an eye on the stem.
:: PREPARATION OF THE CUTTING ::
cut of the bottom part of the stem, just below a node. the nodes is where growth appears and in this case it'll be new roots. uh, by the way, if you don't already know it, you can click on each picture to get a bigger version to see better what the ... i'm talking about :-)
remove all leaves from the bottom up, so that there's only two left - if the leaves are really new or small, you can leave three. do this to make sure there not too big areas of dehydration and to make sure the new plant will use it's energy on building strong new roots. if there are any flower buds, it is crucial that you remove them too, for the same reason.you will also need to remove the stipuli; the tiny green "leaves" that sits in most nodes, see the picture if you're in doubt.
finally, i use a solution of vitamin C to give the plants a good head start. i use the tablets that can be dissolved but i know vitamin C is available in powder and will do just as well. you need to stir it with something that is not metal in a small glass or vase and then leave the cutting in it for a while.
:: PLANTING ::
cover the drainage hole with bigger leca or a small piece of a broken pot to keep the bottom of the pot clean and ensure good drainage.fill up the wet pot with the soil mix and make a hole in it, for example with a pencil. stick the cutting in and make sure that at least three nodes are covered.
place the pot in water so that it's emerged at least half way. very quickly the soil will become moist and you should remove the pot from the water before the soil is completely soaked.
afterwards, simply place your new friend in your lightest space and make sure that it is warm. i stick them in my window sill and crank the radiator beneath as i refuse to invest in a propagator. this way they have lots of light and get warmth from below and i just have to make sure that they are continuously moist.
do not cover them, as is suggested with some plants! pelargonium cuttings need to have moist soil but dry leaves as they are very prone to rotting.
oh, and, if you know the name of the mother plant, it's smart to stick a plant label in the pot ;-)
:: CARE ::
in a few weeks, the cutting will have new roots and your friend is well on it's way. when you see the roots - either because they stick out through the drainage hole or because you gently look down the sides inside of the pot you should start following their growth. this will depend on the type/size of the mother plant, but when the roots shoot through most of the small pot, it is time to either start fertilizing or transplant it too a bigger pot with normal soil. this will, for most normal types of cultivars be after 4-6 weeks. in these weeks it the most important to make sure the soil is constantly moist.GOOD LUCK!
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